So you finally dare to switch to high-quality active ingredient skincare, but instead of a radiant complexion, you only get pimples, tightness, and dry patches? Don't worry: an initial worsening can be completely normal when switching from conventional skincare products to potent active ingredient cosmetics. This skin reaction is also known as "skin purging" (from the English verb "to purge" = to cleanse).

But what exactly happens during this initial worsening, what are the benefits of "enduring" it, and how does skin purging differ from an allergic reaction? You'll find answers to all these questions and more in this article.

What is Skin Purging?

Even if your skin appears radiant and healthy on the outside, it's possible that deep within your pores, there are hidden deposits caused by skincare products, bacteria, and other environmental influences.

Detox for the skin

Skin purging is a cleansing process of the skin, during which these deep-seated deposits rise to the surface. The skin purges itself of underlying impurities and deeper contaminations.

Initial worsening

You can think of skin purging as your skin's spring cleaning. Everything that doesn't belong is, so to speak, swept out of the skin. This can initially lead to pimples and blemishes, but these usually disappear quickly. Tightness or flaky patches can also be symptoms of an initial worsening of the skin.

Why does an initial worsening of the skin occur?

Our skin renews itself approximately every 28 days. This is how long it takes for a skin cell, after its formation in the hyperdermis, the deepest skin layer, to migrate to the epidermis (the outer skin layer).

As old skin cells are shed, fresh skin cells take their place. This happens in a completely natural way, without you having to do anything for it.

This process can be accelerated by gentle, mechanical exfoliants, such as Face Brushing.

However, you can also stimulate your skin's renewal process in other ways – namely through active ingredients, which penetrate into the deeper layers of the skin and boost cell renewal. This causes deeper-seated skin impurities to become visible more quickly: Skin purging begins. [1]

What are the benefits of Skin Purging?

The fact is: With skin purging, you'll be rewarded for persevering. Once the initial worsening is over, switching to active ingredient skincare, especially if it's natural and gentle on the skin, brings numerous benefits.

Clear skin

Natural, active ingredients allow your skin to cleanse itself deep into the pores. This way, deep-seated deposits finally come to the surface and can be eliminated.

Sustainable slow-aging

Through skin purging, you accelerate your skin's renewal process. Dead skin cells are shed more quickly and can make way for new skin cells. This makes your skin appear smoother and fresher.

What triggers Skin Purging?

Good to know: Skin purging can be triggered by all active ingredients and products that boost cell renewal or have an exfoliating effect, i.e., a peeling effect. These include, for example, the following:

• Retinol
• Bakuchiol as a plant-based retinol alternative
• Vitamin C and its derivatives
• Chemical peels, e.g., AHA and BHA acids
• Exfoliating plant extracts like willow bark
• Mechanical peels like face brushing

How do I recognize Skin Purging?

If you have recently started using one of the active ingredients or products mentioned above and your skin is suddenly showing blemishes in your usual spots, skin purging could be the reason. However, there's no need to worry: Skin purging can be a sign that the product is actually working. It may sound harsh, but in this case, your skin's condition must first get worse before it gets better.

Generally, the symptoms of initial worsening subside after just a few days. However, skin purging can also last for up to about a month, as this is how long the skin needs to renew itself. If you still experience blemishes and other skin reactions six to eight weeks after the first application of the new product, it may be a sign that your skin is not tolerating the product optimally.

Skin Purging when switching to natural cosmetics

If you previously used skincare products based on mineral oil, silicones, or similar ingredients, switching to natural cosmetics can also lead to an initial worsening. These substances create an (artificially) smooth, soft skin surface and retain a lot of moisture in the skin. While the skin may feel cared for, this pleasant skin condition is not necessarily due to a healthy, well-functioning skin (barrier), but is only superficially created.

It is therefore quite possible that after switching to natural cosmetics, the skin may initially feel drier, tighter, or develop blemishes. Your skin needs to get used to the change, and the natural skin barrier may need to regenerate. However, skin purging is usually a good sign: It shows you that the new natural cosmetic product is working.

Tips for relief during Skin Purging

Essentially, you only need to go through the skin purging process once for the product to show its desired effect. However, since this can be very uncomfortable, we would like to give you a few tips to help alleviate skin purging:

Slowly acclimate your skin to the product

You can initially use a lower dose of the active ingredient or mix it with a moisturizer. It can also be beneficial to initially not apply the product as frequently and gradually increase usage, keyword: "easing in."

Always test only one new product

Never use too many new products at once; instead, focus on just one new product that you carefully integrate into your routine.

Moisturize your skin

Your skin needs extra attention now. Always keep it well-hydrated.

Use mild cleansing products

What your skin absolutely doesn't need right now are harsh cleansing products. Make sure to cleanse it thoroughly, but use mild products without alcohol, etc.

Protect your skin from the sun

Your skin needs sun protection more than ever now. Make sure to use a cream with a high SPF daily to avoid further irritation.

What is the difference between an initial worsening and an allergic reaction?

Even though natural cosmetics are well-suited for allergy sufferers, in rare cases, an allergic reaction can occur. These are triggered by an intolerance to one or more ingredients, or an excessively high dosage of an active ingredient. [2]

While skin purging manifests as mild redness that quickly fades after application, isolated pimples and blemishes, or a slight feeling of tightness, you can usually recognize an allergic reaction by its intensity:

An allergic reaction results in

• severe redness and itching,
• burning of the skin,
• wheals and/or
• severe skin blemishes in unusual areas for you.

Moisturizing creams, cleansing products, or sunscreens generally do not trigger skin purging. If skin blemishes or other reactions appear after using a new product from one of these groups, it may be that you simply do not tolerate the product and your skin reacts accordingly. A sensitive reaction of your skin to new products often also manifests as blemishes appearing in new, unusual areas on your skin.

You should consult a doctor immediately if you suspect your skin may be allergic to a skincare product.

Our tip: Never apply a new skincare product over a large area of skin; instead, do a "patch test" beforehand. For this, apply a coin-sized amount of the product to a small area in the crook of your arm or on your face and wait 24 hours. If no redness has appeared by then, you can safely use the product.

Sources

[1] Rodan K, Fields K, Majewski G, Falla T. Skincare Bootcamp: The Evolving Role of Skincare. Plast Reconstr Surg Glob Open. 2016;4(12 Suppl Anatomy and Safety in Cosmetic Medicine: Cosmetic Bootcamp):e1152. doi:10.1097/GOX.0000000000001152 https://journals.lww.com/prsgo/Fulltext/2016/12001/Skincare_Bootcamp__The_Evolving_Role_of_Skincare.7.aspx
[2] American Academy of Dermatology. 9 Things to Try When Acne Won't Clear.