Nature is a true master of its craft and therefore the best source of inspiration when it comes to skin. Biomimetics starts right there. It takes the natural protective power of our skin as a model to develop innovative and effective skin care. In this article, we explain how biomimetic skin care works, what its advantages are, and what you can look forward to with our new biomimetic face cream.
WHAT IS BIOMIMETIC SKIN CARE?
The word biomimetics is composed of the ancient Greek terms "bios" (life) and "mimesis" (imitation). The principle of biomimetic skin care is therefore based on imitating the natural processes and structures of the skin. It uses ingredients that, in their composition and function, resemble the natural building blocks of the skin to support and regenerate it. Unlike conventional cosmetic products, which often use synthetic ingredients, biomimetic skin care aims to restore the skin's natural balance without irritating or overwhelming it.
What is a DMS cream?
In connection with biomimetic cosmetics, DMS creams are often mentioned. The abbreviation DMS stands for Derma-Membrane Structure and refers to a special formulation in biomimetic skin care that adapts to the chemical composition of the skin. DMS creams are mainly used in dermatology and cosmetics in the context of corneotherapy. This method aims to strengthen the skin barrier and thus promote skin health. Main areas of application are skin problems such as atopic eczema, neurodermatitis, rosacea, acne, or psoriasis. In addition, DMS creams support skin regeneration and reduce irritation after dermatological treatments such as acid peels, microdermabrasion, or laser therapies.
LAMELLAR LIPID STRUCTURES AS A COMPONENT OF BIOMIMETIC SKIN CARE
Biomimetic DMS creams are based on lamellar structures that are modeled on natural skin lipids. Lamellar lipid structures are special layers of lipids (fats) that play an important role in the skin. The term "lamellar" comes from Latin and means "plate-like" or "layered". These structures consist of thin, layered lipids that arrange themselves alternately like a stack of plates.[1]
In the skin, these lamellar lipid structures are located between the cells of the outermost skin layer (stratum corneum) and ensure that the skin retains moisture and is protected from harmful environmental influences. In biomimetic skin care, lamellar lipid structures are recreated to provide the skin with similar protective functions as the natural lipid layers.
The basis for this is so-called phospholipids such as the body's own phosphatidylcholine (PC).
Phospholipids & Phosphatidylcholine
Phospholipids are natural fat molecules found in every cell. One of the best-known phospholipids is phosphatidylcholine, which is found in cell membranes that enclose the interior of the cell. In biomimetic skin care, phosphatidylcholine acts as a natural emulsifier [2] because it has the ability to combine water and oil - the two essential components of creams - into an emulsion. Without an emulsifier, both substances usually could not mix.
Excursion: Synthetic (skin-foreign) vs. natural (skin-identical) emulsifiers
Conventional cosmetics usually use synthetic, i.e. skin-foreign, emulsifiers. Although they act as a very effective binder for water and oil, they can weaken the skin barrier in the long run. Because what on the one hand provides a beautiful texture and a pleasant skin feeling of creams has a decisive disadvantage. The emulsifiers deposit in the skin and finally combine the skin's own fats with water when showering or caring for the face. The lipids, which are so important for maintaining the skin barrier, are simply washed out and the skin's protective function is weakened.[3]
The situation is quite different with the skin-identical emulsifier phosphatidylcholine in biomimetic DMS creams. As a component of natural cell membranes, the skin recognizes this lipid as a familiar substance. As a result, PC can seamlessly integrate into the existing lipid structures of the skin and support the skin barrier instead of washing it away.
With all these positive properties, the question naturally arises as to why this ingredient is not found much more frequently in skin creams. The answer is simple: the production of phosphatidylcholine is expensive and complex. It is obtained from natural sources such as soybeans and, to a lesser extent, from rapeseed and sunflower seeds, which requires high-quality raw materials and complex processes. The purification and separation from other lipids is technically demanding and requires modern facilities, which further increases costs.
FULL OF ADVANTAGES: WHAT PHOSPHATIDYLCHOLINE DOES FOR THE SKIN
In addition to its function as an emulsifier, which enables the formation of derma-membrane structures in DMS creams, phosphatidylcholine itself develops a whole range of highly effective properties:
1. Improvement of skin hydration
Phosphatidylcholine plays a crucial role in regulating skin hydration. It has the ability to bind water and strengthen the skin barrier, leading to a significant reduction in transepidermal water loss. [4]
2. Strengthening of the skin barrier
The skin barrier protects against external influences such as pollution, microbes, and allergens. Phosphatidylcholine helps to strengthen and regenerate this barrier by stabilizing the lipid composition of the skin.[4]
3. Better tolerability
As a natural component of the skin, phosphatidylcholine has high tolerability compared to synthetic emulsifiers. Creams with PC are particularly beneficial for people with sensitive or reactive skin, as they minimize the risk of allergies and irritations. [4]
4. Increased bioavailability of active ingredients
Phosphatidylcholine can increase the absorption and bioavailability of other active cream ingredients in the skin. By using phosphatidylcholine as a carrier system, active ingredients can penetrate over time via the outermost stratum corneum into the epidermis (upper skin layers) and down to the dermis (deeper skin layers) to unleash their full positive effect.[5]
5. Antioxidant properties
Phosphatidylcholine also has antioxidant properties that help protect the skin from damage caused by free radicals. Free radicals are caused by external environmental factors such as UV radiation, air pollution, and stress. They can accelerate skin aging and lead to various skin problems. Antioxidant properties help to protect skin cells and prevent visible signs of skin aging. [4]
6. Regulation of sebum production
Phosphatidylcholine can regulate sebum production in the skin, which is particularly beneficial for people with oily or acne-prone skin. Balanced sebum production prevents impurities and helps the skin look less oily.[6]
7. Reduction of inflammation
Phosphatidylcholine has anti-inflammatory properties and can therefore be helpful in conditions such as rosacea or psoriasis by improving redness and skin irritations. [4]
8. Support for slow aging
Phosphatidylcholine supports the structure and elasticity of the skin by stimulating collagen production. A higher collagen content leads to a firmer complexion and reduces the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. [4]
9. Improved skin texture
Phosphatidylcholine can help to improve skin texture by promoting cell renewal and making the skin appear smoother. By promoting skin renewal, dead skin cells are effectively removed and unevenness is minimized, which contributes to an even complexion. [4]
RUHI BIOMIMETIC SKIN CARE: THE ADAPTOGEN BIOMIMETIC BARRIER CREAM
The benefits mentioned above led us at ruhi to develop our own biomimetic face cream with phosphatidylcholine, which intensively nourishes and regenerates the skin. Thanks to the innovative technology of lamellar structures, the valuable slow-aging active ingredients penetrate even deeper into the skin to repair and care for it. This makes our Adaptogen Biomimetic Barrier Cream a deeply effective and therefore extremely effective cream that is particularly tailored to the intensive care needs of your skin in winter. Despite the rich formulation, it is quickly absorbed into the skin and provides the pleasant feeling of a light serum.
What's inside: Our Hero Ingredients
Phosphatidylcholine in our innovative DMS cream helps these five wonderful slow-aging heroes achieve their full deep effectiveness:
Ceramides:
These natural lipids (fats) protect the skin from moisture loss and strengthen the skin barrier, ensuring long-lasting smoothness and increased resilience.
Tremella Mushroom:
The extract of the tremella mushroom offers a herbal alternative to hyaluronic acid. It helps the skin retain moisture better and ensures a plump complexion.
Organic Squalane:
Our squalane from sustainably grown organic sugar cane nourishes and protects the skin without leaving a greasy feeling. Squalane oil is quickly absorbed, supports the microbiome, and strengthens the skin barrier. It is also found in a nearly identical form (squalene) in the upper layer of the skin.
Organic Saffron:
Organic saffron protects the skin from harmful environmental influences, soothes inflammation, reduces pigment spots, and supports the maintenance of collagen stores.
Vitamin F:
An ingredient consisting of essential fatty acids such as linoleic acid and linolenic acid, which preserves moisture, thereby strengthening the skin barrier and promoting regeneration. It soothes irritated skin, alleviates redness, and thus ensures a radiant complexion.
Application notes:
The ruhi Adaptogen Biomimetic Barrier Cream contains no fragrances and no alcohol and is therefore particularly suitable for sensitive skin. A hazelnut-sized amount is sufficient to apply to the face, neck, and décolleté and gently massage in.
CONCLUSION: PROTECTION AND CARE INSPIRED BY NATURE
Biomimetic skin care uses nature as a model to support the skin in a particularly gentle and effective way. By imitating skin's own structures and processes, it helps to strengthen the skin barrier, deeply retain moisture, and protect the skin from environmental influences. The result is a treatment that not only focuses on surface effects but also sustainably builds up and stabilizes your skin from within. So, if you value a natural yet highly effective skincare routine, you'll find an innovative solution for your slow-aging ritual in biomimetic DMS creams like our ruhi Adaptogen Biomimetic Barrier Cream.
SOURCES
[2] Phospholipids in Cosmetic Carriers.
[3] Delivery Systems in Cosmetic Dermatology. In Cosmetic Dermatology: Products and Procedures.
[4] Phospholipide als Trendsetter, Pharmazeutische Zeitung.
[5] Phosphatidylcholine: A Revolution in Drug Delivery Technology.
